
Chuckwallas (S. ater / hispidus / varius)


South Mountain Carrot-tail male ("Alpha")
Red-back male (John Castellano's male)


Carrot-tail hatchlings
Crater
Mountain Red-back hatchling
We've worked with various species and races of chuckwalla off and on for many
years. We've always considered them secondary to our Uromastyx breeding
efforts
but their care is so close to Uromastyx that we seem to keep getting back
into them.
The genus
is represented in U.S. herpetoculture by three
main species; Sauromalus ater [obesus],
which is the mainland species found throughout Nevada, New Mexico, Arizona and
California; S. hispidus, the Angel Island chuck, and S. various,
the San Esteban Island chuck, both of which are found on their namesake islands
off the Baja California coast. I wrote a brief article concerning breeding one of our
favorite races of S. ater, the South Mt. Carrot-tailed Chuckwalla
for Reptiles Magazine in the March 2008 "Ask the Breeder"
section. I'll eventually repost it here, but for now I need to restrict
this page to a summary of that information following a brief discussion of what
species we're currently working with and why.
First, the main reason I keep
talking myself into breeding chucks is that so few seem to be setup in breeding
programs. I can count on one hand the number of serious breeders currently
working with the mainland species and not many more who work with the
island species. These are one of Americas great reptiles and most their ranges
are now closed to collecting or have been turned into parking lots and
subdivisions. This makes the majority of them no longer available to the
herpetoculturalist or pet keeper. If we don't get these races established
in sustainable domestic populations, we may never see any of them outside of a
Zoo, and for many, not even there. While many chucks tend to be somewhat
skittish, most tame reasonably well, are easy to keep, and make excellent
companion or teaching animals.
Of the mainland groups,
we are primarily working with the Carrot-tailed Chuck, but have a fledgling Red-back
group in the works as well. These two, in my opinion, have arguably the best color contrasts of any of the mainland
chucks, are non-aggressive and just nice overall lizards. Both have proven
well suited to captive breeding and have been in herpetoculture for many years.
The hatchlings are slightly delicate but the adolescents and adults are
very hardy reptiles. They are not quite as personable as the average
Uromastyx but many become reasonably tame and make very nice pets.
We have also kept both species of
Island chuckwallas over the years but prior to 2005 had never tried to bred
them. This was due to the prevalent belief held in the chuckwalla breeding
community that none of the Island chuckwallas
could be successfully bred when
housed indoors year round. We are in too cool of an area of North America to house them outdoors even
in the summer.
So outdoor housing is not a
reasonable option for us. Of the two species, the Angel island is the
tamest and most distinctive. They literally get dog tame and ours
routinely would jump into our hands at feeding time. They are a very
large (18" + total length), solid charcoal black chuckwalla that sports
prickly skin - especially surrounding the neck (it almost looks like a like a
miniature spiked collar on males). They are very impressive yet are very
rarely bred in captivity. We let ours go several years back to focus on
species we felt we would have better luck trying to breed. We still
own a small group of the other island species - the San Esteban Island chuckwalla. San Estebans are one of the
most beautiful chucks, sporting a sunset hue of pinks and blacks over the entire
body. They are also the largest chucks, occasionally reaching over 21" as adults.
Unfortunately they are
considered a threatened species -not from rarity but because they have such a
restricted home range. Thus the federal government normally requires that both the seller and buyer have
a special
Endangered Captive Wildlife permit before they can be sold across state lines. As
very few individuals have these permits, few people bother to breed San Estebans.
It's a shame as we could turn a very rare species into a reasonable common one,
drastically reducing the odds of it becoming extinct.


Calico male ("Crown")
San Esteban yearling juvenile
We've worked with various species and races of chuckwalla off and on for many
years. We've always considered them secondary to our Uromastyx breeding
efforts
but their care is so close to Uromastyx that we seem to keep getting back
into them.
The genus
is represented in U.S. herpetoculture by three
main species; Sauromalus ater [obesus],
which is the mainland species found throughout Nevada, New Mexico, Arizona and
California; S. hispidus, the Angel Island chuck, and S. various,
the San Esteban Island chuck, both of which are found on their namesake islands
off the Baja California coast. I wrote a brief article concerning breeding one of our
favorite races of S. ater, the South Mt. Carrot-tailed Chuckwalla
for Reptiles Magazine in the March 2008 "Ask the Breeder"
section. I'll eventually repost it here, but for now I need to restrict
this page to a summary of that information following a brief discussion of what
species we're currently working with and why.
First, the main reason I keep
talking myself into breeding chucks is that so few seem to be setup in breeding
programs. I can count on one hand the number of serious breeders currently
working with the mainland species and not many more who work with the
island species. These are one of Americas great reptiles and most their ranges
are now closed to collecting or have been turned into parking lots and
subdivisions. This makes the majority of them no longer available to the
herpetoculturalist or pet keeper. If we don't get these races established
in sustainable domestic populations, we may never see any of them outside of a
Zoo, and for many, not even there. While many chucks tend to be somewhat
skittish, most tame reasonably well, are easy to keep, and make excellent
companion or teaching animals.
Of the mainland groups,
we are primarily working with the Carrot-tailed Chuck, but have a fledgling Red-back
group in the works as well. These two, in my opinion, have arguably the best color contrasts of any of the mainland
chucks, are non-aggressive and just nice overall lizards. Both have proven
well suited to captive breeding and have been in herpetoculture for many years.
The hatchlings are slightly delicate but the adolescents and adults are
very hardy reptiles. They are not quite as personable as the average
Uromastyx but many become reasonably tame and make very nice pets.
We have also kept both species of
Island chuckwallas over the years but prior to 2005 had never tried to bred
them. This was due to the prevalent belief held in the chuckwalla breeding
community that none of the Island chuckwallas
could be successfully bred when
housed indoors year round. We are in too cool of an area of North America to house them outdoors even
in the summer.
So outdoor housing is not a
reasonable option for us. Of the two species, the Angel island is the
tamest and most distinctive. They literally get dog tame and ours
routinely would jump into our hands at feeding time. They are a very
large (18" + total length), solid charcoal black chuckwalla that sports
prickly skin - especially surrounding the neck (it almost looks like a like a
miniature spiked collar on males). They are very impressive yet are very
rarely bred in captivity. We let ours go several years back to focus on
species we felt we would have better luck trying to breed. We still
own a small group of the other island species - the San Esteban Island chuckwalla. San Estebans are one of the
most beautiful chucks, sporting a sunset hue of pinks and blacks over the entire
body. They are also the largest chucks, occasionally reaching over 21" as adults.
Unfortunately they are
considered a threatened species -not from rarity but because they have such a
restricted home range. Thus the federal government normally requires that both the seller and buyer have
a special
Endangered Captive Wildlife permit before they can be sold across state lines. As
very few individuals have these permits, few people bother to breed San Estebans.
It's a shame as we could turn a very rare species into a reasonable common one,
drastically reducing the odds of it becoming extinct.
A few crosses were produced between
the San Esteban and Angel Islands chucks in the early 2000's as a way of
legally producing a San Esteban-like chuck that the average reptile enthusiast
could own. These are referred
to in herpetoculture as the Calico chuck. Luckily the crosses are
fertile and seem
to have the best traits of both chucks - the good looks of the San Esteban with the
calmer temperament of the Angel Islands. We decided to get a small group
of hatchlings of these in 2005 to see if we could work out a means of getting an
Island chuck to successfully breed in an indoor-only situation. Our
Calicos reached maturity in 2008 and we did get 3 clutches of eggs.
Unfortunately all proved infertile but we persisted. In 2009 we produced 2
clutches - both of which proved fertile and yielded nice healthy, huge
chuck hatchlings in June 2009. We hope to cycle a few of our pure
San Esteban's for breeding in 2010 to see if we can port our success to the two
pure species. In the mean time we're now looking for pure Angel Island to
restart that project as well.
Basic Care Sheet
for the
Carrot-tailed
Chuckwallas
As I
indicated before, the Carrot-tails are my favorite of the chucks and the one we
put the most effort into. It is one of the smaller chuckwallas with adults of
both sexes averaging around 250-300 grams and 6-8 inches (15-18cm) snout to
vent, 13-16 inches (33-41cm) in total length. Hatchlings and juveniles are
boldly banded in black and dull cream the entire length of their bodies.
Initially the cream bands contain a pink tint with brighter red flecks. This high contrast pattern steadily
fades during their first year of life, leaving them with more earth-tone colored
bands. As they approach maturity, Carrot-tails become sexually dimorphic. Males
loose all traces of banding, exchanging it for a rich solid black body and an
orange tail. Occasionally minute scattered red flecks remain present across
their backs, but these generally disappear with time. Adult females retain the
earth tone bands but many slowly darken as they age, eventually resembling a
dull male in overall coloration.
Initially they can be reared communally in 30 to 40 gallon, bare-bottomed
“Breeder” format tanks (approx. 3’ long, 18” wide, 16” deep) until the
hatchlings surpass 5” in total length. After that, you can either add
washed small, smooth gravel or grass pellets (timothy) as a substrate. Adults will need
at least a 4’ long by 2’ wide tank for each pair. Being crevice dwellers,
they’ll need multiple rock hides as well as a large basking rock. For larger
enclosures, half and full height cement construction blocks work perfectly for
these. For smaller enclosures, stacked, glued slate tiles works well. We also keep a
large chunk of sealed driftwood in the cages for structural diversity. For
individuals 2 years old and up, we also place a nestbox in the corner of the
enclosure. This is usually a 10 gallon Roughneck Rubbermaid plastic container.
This is filled ¾ full with a 50/50 mix of slightly damp playground sand and
“Excavator” brand or similar clay-based soil. A 4” diameter hole is cut into the
lid to allow the chucks access to the next box interior. We
prefer UVB producing mercury vapor bulbs for the basking sites and high output
compact fluorescent bulbs for the background lighting. The goal is to produce as
bright a cage as possible for 12 to13 hours per day. The average floor
temperature should be in the high 90’s F (35C) with a basking spot temperature
of 110F to 115F (44C to 48C). South Mountain has summer night time temperatures
in the mid 80’s, so shoot for similar temperatures in your enclosures. We
maintain these conditions through the year for non-breeding animals, maybe
dropping the average temperatures by 10F to 15F during the winter months.
We
rear both the adults and juveniles on a completely vegetarian diet. The base
diet consists of a combination of commercial Spring Mix greens with added
endive. The greens are dampened with fresh water and then dusted lightly with
ground up Mazuri® tortoise diet and Miner-All ® calcium/mineral supplement with
vitamin D3. The more finicky eaters can be enticed into eating by adding edible
blooms such as dandelion, violas or nasturtiums to the mix. As the chucks
approach maturity, we start adding whole moistened Mazuri® tortoise pellets to
the mix. The Mazuri pellets make up 50% of the diet for adults and
are easily the adults most preferred food over all other types of food. Adults do best without a water bowl in their enclosure while hatchlings
generally need access to daily drinking water for the first few months of their
lives.
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We are


Calico hatchlings -2009
Newly hatched Calico chuck -June 2009
For those looking for hatchlings or older specimens, please look over our various web pages to get a feel for what we carry. Please see "Deer Fern Farms Ordering / Policies" for ordering information. Availability for the various species can be seasonal or sporadic so please e-mail or call us (360 435-2679) if you're looking for to add a Uromastyx or chuckwalla to your family. We keep a "Wanted" list and fill it as specimens become available.
We ship based on the prevailing weather patterns between us and you. Usually we can ship most weeks, but when large storms/severe heat/cold are forecasted, we prefer to hold off. Please see "Deer Fern Farms Ordering / Policies" for ordering information.
Email:
douglasdix@deerfernfarms.com